In New Zealand the closest thing to shipping on Lake Thun and other Swiss lakes are the ships on Lake Wakatipu,
in particular the steam ship Earnslaw.
But the Earnslaw also has its very own fascination. The beautiful wild mountain
landscape together with the resort ambience of Queenstown make for an appealing environment.
The ship itself is still coal-fired.
One evening the Earnslaw comes into Queenstown Bay. [Oct 2004].
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Built in 1912, the Earnslaw was still active carrying goods and passengers
around Lake Wakatipu to the lakeside communities and farms until 1970.
Often the Earnslaw would even load sheep and cattle.
Even though she is now in tourist service. one can still imagine the more rural freight she once carried.
[Jan 2010].
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Real Journeys now operates the Earnslaw. She was refurbished before entering
tourist service. The bridge was enclosed as was the aft of the upper deck, creating another
saloon.
The wood panelling of the ship is kept in perfect condition. A look along the length
of the Earnslaw toward the aft. [Jan 2003]
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Tourists have long been attracted to the Queenstown area. And while maintaining its public
service the Earnslaw has long been used by tourists especially on the journey to
Glenorchy and Kinloch where tourists could transfer to buses to explore the mountain wonder world.
The Earnslaw smokes it up in front of the Remarkables mountain range. [Oct 2004]
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The Earnslaw regularly makes trips for tourists between Queenstown and the high
country theme farm and restaurant at Walter Peak Station.
This is the view from the lower deck of the ship back towards Walter Peak Station.
Just visible is the tip of the New Zealand ensign. [Jan 2010].
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This is a view of New Zealand maritime and civil ensign at the stern of the Earnslaw.
In contrast to the national flag, the ensign has a red background colour. [Jan 2010].
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The first steamship on Lake Wakatipu was the paddle steamer Antrim.
It was built from local timber near the head of the lake in 1868 and worked on the lake until 1905.
Here, the ship is seen at the wharf of Glenorchy in 1905.
Scene at Lake Wakatipu with paddle steamer and mountain range. Birch, A E :Scenic negatives and prints taken by Thomas Pringle.
Ref: 1/1-006890-G. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/22822010
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The iron-hulled Steamship Jane Williams was launched in 1872.
It was renamed Ben Lomond in 1886 and continued to serve the lake until 1952.
On this photo the Ben Lomond is shown at the wharf in Kinloch, the western head of Lake Wakatipu.
Ferry 'Ben Lomond' at wharf [Kinloch?], Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown-Lakes District, Otago Region. Williams, Edgar Richard, 1891-1983: Negatives, lantern slides, stereographs, colour transparencies, monochrome prints, photographic ephemera.
Ref: 1/2-140470-G. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/23131462
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The Ben Lomond exchanges cargo at the isolated Nicholas Bay.
The ship served the many sheep stations and farming communities around Lake Wakatipu.
Hocken Library
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The iron-hulled paddle steamer Mountaineer was built in 1878, and launched in Kingston in 1879.
It was in government service from 1903 until 1931, and then used as a house boat until 1941.
Here, the paddle steamer waits at the wharf of Kinloch in the late 19th century.
Burton Brothers (Dunedin, N.Z.). Paddle steamer Mountaineer berthed at Kinloch, Lake Wakatipu - Photograph taken by the Burton Brothers. Original photographic prints and postcards from the file print collection, Box 18. Ref: PAColl-7581-83.
Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/22770969
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The Mountaineer is seen on this photo in 1928 at Elfin Bay.
The hull has, by now, been painted white. The windows of the aft saloon are clearly visible.
Paddle steamer 'Mountaineer' at jetty, Elfin Bay, Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown-Lakes District. Williams, Edgar Richard, 1891-1983: Negatives, lantern slides, stereographs, colour transparencies, monochrome prints, photographic ephemera.
Ref: 1/4-097651-F. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/32056485
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The Mountaineer is berthed at the wharf in Kingston.
Railway tracks run onto the wharf with several waggons ready for transhipment of goods to and from Queenstown.
This photo was taken in 1926.
View of Kingston Wharf on Lake Wakatipu.. Godber, Albert Percy, 1875-1949 :Collection of albums, prints and negatives.
Ref: APG-1331-1/2-G. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/22551523
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The Earnslaw entered service in 1912.
She was built in Dunedin, then shipped to Kingston in pieces and reassembled there.
The twin screw steamer was operated by New Zealand Government Railway.
Here she approaches Kinloch in 1951.
Steamship Earnslaw on Lake Wakatipu, Kinloch - Photograph taken by Gladys Goodall. Original photographic prints and postcards from file print collection, Box 2.
Ref: PAColl-5584-01. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/22904438
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Until 1972 tourists could catch buses from Kinloch to the Routeburn Valley. This photo is from 1949.
People came in great numbers on the Earnslaw to experience this beautiful part of the world.
The tours were operated by the Bryant family, who had lived for generations in Kinloch.
Raine, William Hall, 1892-1955. Creator unknown : Tourist buses starting the Routeburn Valley trip, Kinloch, alongside Lake Wakatipu, photographed by William Hall Raine.
Ref: PICT-000185. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/23150247
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Today the wharf at Kinloch can no longer be accessed by ships.
The Dart River has deposited too much material at the head of the lake, which form sand and shingle banks.
Nowadays most people get to Kinloch, the Routeburn Valley and the other areas around Lake Wakatipu by car.
Small boats can still access Kinloch Wharf.
[Jan 2021].
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The Earnslaw also often travelled to the other end of the lake, to Kingston.
Here she is seen next to a passenger train in Kingston in the 1920s to 1940s.
Passenger steam train on rail tracks beside Earnslaw steamship docked at wharf, Kingston, Lake Wakatipu. Williams, Edgar Richard, 1891-1983: Negatives, lantern slides, stereographs, colour transparencies, monochrome prints, photographic ephemera.
Ref: 1/4-095564-F. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/30646347
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The bridge of the Earnslaw was originally not enclosed, so that it got quite cold for the ship's crew.
Here a tarpaulin is used to keep some of the weather out.
The Earnslaw is seen in the 1930s in Queenstown.
Passenger steamboat, 'Earnslaw', on Lake Wakatipu next to jetty, Queenstown, Otago. Williams, Edgar Richard, 1891-1983: Negatives, lantern slides, stereographs, colour transparencies, monochrome prints, photographic ephemera.
Ref: 1/4-100711-F. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/32049133
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Today, the bridge of the Earnslaw is enclosed.
The wings of the bridge are hardly used with the captain steering the ship from the central position.
Passengers can even access one side of the non-enclosed part of the bridge.
[Jan 2021].
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The Earnslaw is still fueled by coal
A tip truck empties its load of coal onto the deck of the Earnslaw, from where it is shoveled in the bunker room.
[Jan 2010].
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The Earnslaw arrives in Queenstown. The central city of this tourist town is dominated by hotels.
[Jan 2008].
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On this occasion the Earnslaw has been chartered for a private function as
she leaves the Queenstown wharf on an evening cruise. [Oct 2004].
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Earnslaw particulars: Passengers: 389 pax. Length: 51.2m
Width: 7.30m Draught: 2.10m Shipyard: McGregor and Company, Dunedin.
They ship in Queenstown Bay. [Jan 2008].
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The Earnslaw travels across Lake Wakatipu towards Queenstown.
There is unseasonable snow on the mountains in the background, the northern outliers of the Eyre Mountains.
Walter Peak is obscured by cloud.
[Jan 2021].
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The Earnslaw enters Queenstown Bay.
The hotels and apartments in the background show that Queenstown is a tourism centre.
[Jan 2021].
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The Earnslaw turns in Queenstown Bay by traveling in a large loop,
so that it can come alongside the steamer wharf ready for another journey onto the lake.
In the background are the botanical gardens of Queenstown. [Jan 2008].
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A sailor on board the Earnslaw prepares to throw a line onto the shore,
so that the ship can be berthed at the Queenstown Steamer Wharf.
[Jan 2021].
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The Earnslaw is coming alongside the Queenstown steamer wharf.
One line has already been fastened to the bollard.
[Jan 2008].
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The Earnslaw sits alongside Steamer Wharf in Queenstown.
[Jan 2021].
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A quiet moment during the height of summer; more tourists prepare to board the Earnslaw in Queenstown.
[Jan 2023].
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With snow covering the upper reaches of the Remarkables, the Earnslaw is leaving Queenstown Bay on a spring day.
[Oct 2024].
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The Earnslaw has left Queenstown and heads across Lake Wakatipu with Cecil Peak in the background.
[Oct 2024].
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The Earnslaw is dwarfed by Walter Peak.
The steam ship is travelling back from Walter Peak Station to Queenstown, but has turned around to practice a man-overboard maneuver.
[Jan 2021].
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The Earnslaw has elements of Belle Epoque decoration.
The salon in the lower deck is beautifully decorated.
Even though it served to carry cargo on occasion,
it was designed for travel in style.
[Jan 2021].
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The paintings in the salon of the Earnslaw are very much in the period style,
showing some mythic beauties.
[Jan 2021].
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The New Zealand Railways (NZR) sign indicates that the Earnslaw once belonged to the state railway
and was part of New Zealand's national railway system.
[Jan 2021].
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A gull hitches a ride on a lifeboat, as the Earnslaw heads towards Walter Peak Station.
[Jan 2021].
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A fireman shovels coal into the firebox of the boiler of the Earnslaw.
In 2022 the company operating the ship, Real NZ, has announced that it will soon convert the Earnslaw
to run on different fuel, such as hydrogen or wood pellets.
For now the traditional way of firing the ship could still be observed.
[Jan 2023].
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The Earnslaw travels along Lake Wakatipu beneath the slopes of Walter Peak.
These days it normally travels between Queenstown and Walter Peak Station four times a day.
[Jan 2021].
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With the slopes of Cecil Peak in the background, the Earnslaw travels along the foot of Walter Peak. [Jan 2023].
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Many of the mountainsides around Lake Wakatipu are only covered by grass and shrubs.
But Real NZ is making some effort at reforestation, both with native and exotic trees.
[Jan 2023].
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The main homestead of Walter Peak Station as seen from the water.
Even though the area was first farmed from 1860, the station was really established in the 1880s.
The Colonel's Homestead was built in 1908, but destroyed in a fire in 1977.
It was subsequently rebuilt on a grander scale.
The homestead and surrounding area has been bought by Real Journeys, the operator of the Earnslaw, in 2014.
[Jan 2021].
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The Earnslaw berthes at Walter Peak Station.
Here passengers can go on land for a farm tour or a dinner.
[Jan 2021].
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With the Colonel's homestead in the background the Earnslaw arrives at Walter Peak Station.
[Jan 2023].
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The Earnslaw at the jetty of Walter Peak Station.
Behind it rises Walter Peak to an altitude of 1800m above sea level.
Lake Wakatipu is at an altitude of about 310m above sea level.
[Jan 2021].
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Smoke rises from the funnel as the fireman feeds the boiler with coal to prepare the Earnslaw for the voyage from Walter Peak Station to Queenstown.
[Jan 2023].
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The Earnslaw at Walter Peak Station, as seen from across the lake.
The high country station consists of the large homestead, several other tourism buildings,
as well as some farm buildings and accommodation for staff.
[Jan 2021].
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This is the view from the terrace of the Colonel's Homestead across the Walter Peak Station gardens to the Earnslaw,
tied up at the wharf.
[Jan 2023].
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The Earnslaw lies at the jetty of Walter Peak Station,
waiting for passengers to board.
[Jan 2021].
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The Earnslaw heads back to Queenstown along Lake Wakatipu.
[Jan 2023].
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The Earnslaw is known as the Lady of the Lake, due to her graceful lines.
She is a beautiful ship and brings some elegance to Lake Wakatipu.
[Jan 2021].
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The Kelvin was one of the early motor vessels used for tours on Lake Wakatipu.
Here it is tied up in Queenstown with another small vessel and the steamer Earnslaw visible in the background.
The photo was taken in 1949.
Tourist vessels Kelvin and Earnslaw at wharf, Queenstown. Whites Aviation Ltd: Photographs.
Ref: WA-21249-F. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/23153069
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Occasionally, Real Journeys uses other ships to move passengers, staff and cargo to Walter Peak Station,
especially if the Earnslaw is out of service.
The Explorer is such a ship.
It previously worked on Lake Manapouri and was known as Fiordlander Explorer.
[Jan 2021].
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The Explorer sits at the wharf in Queenstown.
Explorer particulars: Passengers: 83 pax. Length: 16.44m.
[Jan 2023].
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The Explorer and the Million Dollar 2 are berthed in Queenstown.
Both of the ships are Fiordlander class vessels, developed and used initially for transporting tourists on Lakes Manapouri and Lake Te Anau.
The ships were built from 1963 to the early 1980s.
[Jan 2021].
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The Million Dollar 2 is operated by Million Dollar Cruises,
an independent company offering cruises on the Frankton Arm of Lake Wakatipu.
Million Dollar 2 particulars: Passengers: 80 pax. Length: 16.74m.
[Jan 2021].
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The name Million Dollar probably refers to the typical phrase million dollar views.
That's often said of a house, which has a particularly nice view, but has caught on in New Zealand to describe any beautiful views.
Much of Lake Wakatipu has indeed great views.
The Million Dollar 2 travels across the open lake around the Queenstown Gardens Peninsula.
In the background is the snowy Walter Peak.
[Jan 2021].
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The Million Dollar 2 does not travel across Lake Wakatipu, but travels only along the Frankton Arm.
Both sides of the Frankton Arm are largely built up with houses, but the shores are nice and the views of the Remarkables Mountain Range
inspiring.
The Million Dollar 2 travels past the Kelvin Heights Golf Course.
[Jan 2021].
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The Million Dollar 2 travels along the Frankton Arm of Lake Wakatipu.
Many willows line the shore of this clear lake.
Even though the water looks inviting for a swim, it remains quite cold throughout the year.
[Jan 2021].
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The Million Dollar 2 sits at the wharf in Kingston, at the southern end of Lake Wakatipu.
In the past the Earnslaw and other steamers connected with the railway in Kingston.
That day the Million Dollar 2 was in Kingston for mechanical work.
[Oct 2024].
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The Fiordlander I was the original ship of the Fiordlander class.
After serving on Lake Manapouri, it worked between Lyttelton and Diamond Harbour for several years.
After its retirement in 2023, I saw the Fiordlander I again in Queenstown in 2024.
It has been refurbished and appears to be a private vessel now.
[Oct 2024].
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The vessel that offers the furthest cruise on Lake Wakatipu is the Spirit of Queenstown.
Here it travels along the lower slopes of Cecil Peak.
[Jan 2021].
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The Spirit of Queenstown travels to Mt Nicholas Station, considerably further up the lake than Walter Peak Station.
Here, however, it is seen against the backdrop of the Remarkables Mountain Range, which lies southeast of Lake Wakatipu.
[Jan 2021].
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The Spirit of Queenstown is a catamaran and considerably faster than the Earnslaw.
Spirit of Queenstown particulars: Passengers: 170 pax. Length: 26.00 m.
Width:8.00 m. Draft: 1.70 m. Speed: 25 knots.
Shipyard: Aluminium Marine, Australia.
[Jan 2021].
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The Spirit of Queenstown departs from Queenstown on its voyage along Lake Wakatipu.
[Jan 2023].
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The Spirit of Queenstown is berthed at its own wharf in Queenstown.
It is operated by Southern Discoveries, a competitor of Real Journeys in Queenstown and Milford Sound.
The Spirit of Queenstown does not seem to be as successful as its competition in Queenstown,
operating only five days a week, often with only two departures, sometimes three departures a day.
[Jan 2021].
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The Spirit of Queenstown was built in 2013 and entered service in December that year.
It mostly offers a cruise with commentary.
At times, a farm experience at Mt. Nicholas Station could be booked, but that is not always available.
The Spirit of Queenstown travels along Lake Wakatipu with Cecil Peak in the background.
[Jan 2021].
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The Spirit of Queenstown travels past Walter Peak Station on its way back to Queenstown from Mt. Nicholas Station.
[Jan 2023].
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As a modern catamaran, the Spirit of Queenstown is one of the faster ships on Lake Wakatipu.
[Jan 2023].
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The Spirit of Queenstown is a nice vessel operating in an amazing landscape.
Unfortunately, New Zealand tourism mainly consists of separate tours or experiences,
rather than a national transport system, which allows guests to enjoy the country on their own terms.
The Spirit of Queenstown travels across Lake Wakatipu in the evening with the Remarkables Mountains in the background.
[Jan 2021].
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In 2024 Southern Discoveries sold the Spirit of Queenstown to Real NZ.
It seems the competition was too strong.
Real NZ plans to offer voyages to Walter Peak Station on the Spirit of Queenstown.
Even though it was in Real NZ colours when I saw it, the ship did not offer any trips at that time.
[Oct 2024].
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A public transport shipping service is operated on Lake Wakatipu by Queenstown Water Taxis.
It operates hourly along the Frankton Arm from the Hilton Hotel via the Frankton Marina and Bayview to Queenstown.
This is a private operation, but the Otago Regional Council has requested tenders for a trial of a publicly-subsidised ferry service on Frankton Arm.
[Jan 2021].
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The Takara is one of the vessels operated by Queenstown Water Taxis and apparently the one that is most often used for the ferry service.
Takara particulars: Passengers: 35 pax. Length: 9.25 m.
Width: 2.50 m. Shipyard: Osprey Boats, Nelson.
[Jan 2021].
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This is the map of the Queenstown Ferry Services which runs along the Frankton Arm of Lake Wakatipu.
[Jan 2023].
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Real NZ also won the contract to operate the subsidised ferry service with the Takara.
Here the ship travels along Lake Wakatipu between Queenstown Bay and the Frankton Arm.
Cecil Peak is in the background.
[Jan 2023].
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On this trip, the Takara also stopped at Queenstown Golf course on the Kelvin Peninsula.
Even though the service is hardly advertised, the small vessel does not have enough space to carry all the people intending to travel
during the main tourist season.
[Jan 2023].
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After leaving the Golf course wharf, the Takara speeds along the Frankton Arm towards Frankton.
Unfortunately, New Zealand makes a sharp distinction between services for tourists and for locals.
If New Zealand used tourists not so much as money-making machines for private companies, but as travelers that sustain public transport services, New Zealand could build a far more successful public transport network that covers more of the country. It would also allow locals to access recreation opportunities and provide frequent services during peak periods.
[Jan 2023].
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Old and new, former and current public transport, come together in Queenstown Bay.
The Takara passes the Earnslaw.
[Jan 2023].
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Even though there are several passenger vessels on Lake Wakatipu,
the Earnslaw still has the feel of a real lake steamer.
Here she is underway on Lake Wakatipu one evening.
[Oct 2004].
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